[maradiliko]

It was just a week and a half after the announcement of the first release of Biver Watches and I was talking to Pierre Biver, one of the co-founders of the brand, face-to-face for the third time over that same period. The brand, which was announced a little over a year ago, chose to release a tremendously complex and striking – albeit aesthetically unusual and modern – Carillon Tourbillon in polished titanium as its introductory piece. At a fête celebrating the release at their farmhouse headquarters within Givrins, Switzerland right before Watches & Wonders, the party was a who's who from the industry's top players. The response from much of the (very online) watch community outside the event, however , seemed like they were out for blood. And Pierre Biver, at only 23 years old and in the spotlight more than ever, wasn't running from that. "You know, some things people were criticizing I can totally understand and we deserve that, " says Pierre. "For instance, because of the short timeline and expectations from the press with regard to images, we used lots of 3D renderings which don't do the view justice. We also didn't necessarily take the time to properly communicate about the enjoy - some things were left unsaid or poorly explained. There are certainly a few things we would have done differently and to be very honest, I think some of the criticism or the commentaries we are receiving are actually super constructive. But there's also there's a lot of noise. inch

There were memes and complaints circulating nearly immediately on Instagram from an audience who - some of which would likely admit - were probably not the target audience for a $570, 000 see. Some of the debate centered around that very point - what should a watch be when that costs so much? What does it mean when a new brand starts at that price? Is the brand just capitalizing off of one of the most important names inside watches, the industry legend Jean-Claude Biver who was the other co-founder behind the brand? Is anyone actually going to buy this watch?
With a bit more tact and deference, I put these questions to the two. Jean-Claude and Calcul were unfazed and surprisingly receptive. Especially as someone wildly considered a marketing genius who formerly led Blancpain, Omega, TAG Heuer, Hublot, and eventually all of watches in LVMH, and the world where a "Hello" from a CEO at a top brand name sometimes amounts to an interview, Jean-Claude Biver was remarkably candid.
"If I were to have any doubts it would be whether all of us made the right decision to release our most complicated watch first, " the elder Biver told me at an event from their U. S. retailer Material Good in New York two weeks ago. "We have both a three-hand watch as well as chronograph in the coming months and I think people will be impressed. But individuals wanted to see what we could do and I think they would have been disappointed if the first thing we all did after a year was something simple. "
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No small portion of the shocked response to the watch can be chalked up to a combination of what a lot of people -- myself included - saw as unexpected decisions. The actual hyper-modern design - highly polished ti, stone dials, sharp angles, and an incredibly uniquely faceted bracelet : was a surprise to me and also probably a lot of others who else expected to see a more traditional Blancpain-esque design.
Instead, the Bivers created something that came closer in vibes to a sort of grand complication Hublot rapid futuristic but immediately recognizably a watch unlike some other hyper-modern designs instructions with a touch of 2008 Jaeger-LeCoultre's obsession with combining complications that resulted in things like the Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 and more recently the Hybris Mechanica. While an ability to execute complications is certainly still important along with en vogue, the market seems to have settled on demand for one good problem at a reasonable price. Where the market zigged, Bivers zagged.

I've been curious if this is Pierre's youthful contemporary vision or even something deep within Jean-Claude's personal tastes that only finally came to the surface when he was able to break free of the actual "guard rails" of corporate art directors that tried to keep him (and their brands) on track. This is, as he himself put it, Jean-Claude Biver's "swan song. "
"That's something that not many people truly understand about my father. You cannot control him, " says Pierre Biver. "Even at the brands where he's worked, it may have seemed like these were safeguards, but it was always that way. He put plenty of himself into all the brands. If you take Zenith or even LABEL Heuer at the time he was there, you could feel his role. "

"He brought which with your pet and now we're doing something which is maybe too different from what people expected, " this individual admits. "People were expecting either something very classic or some thing very modern day. Working with my father and the relationship we have and the way many of us work today, it's hard to differentiate from one another. I cannot tell you anymore whose idea was exactly what. But today we are going to actually in a sweet spot of what we think an iconic traditional watch look like if it was made today. inches
The movement - in theory - draws inspiration through Jean-Claude Biver's early career mentorship by Jacques Piguet whose father Louis Elisée Piguet had been one of history's greatest watchmakers and a master of problems. In fact , Bregury later cut the bells for their minute repeaters throughout L. E. Piguet's attic. The brand states that "sound, memory, in addition to movement" are three essential parts of what they hope to achieve. The Bête Tourbillon checks the "sound" box while a future perpetual calendar that will "remembers" the particular date and a chronograph in which tracks "movement" are in the works. There are also a number of very "New-Age" references in their press materials talking about interconnectedness and the supposed powers in the stones chosen for knobs.
In practice, typically the movement was developed by Cercle des Horlogers in Les Hauts-Geneveys near Neuchatel with other movements with development coming from Dubois Dépraz. The design has been done in coordination with the company M-Design founded by Miodrag Mijatovic and his product style manager Philippe Girard, who also Jean-Claude has worked with since his days at Blancpain.
But despite the announcement, these elements aren't set in stone. Pierre Biver told me that they're still working on sourcing the best gongs for the repeater plus fine-tuning often the hammers and their trajectory for the best possible sound. They hope to have these adjustments sorted out through mid-May so the company can be up to full production (at first 12 watches per year but up to 20 if they are able to increase staffing) simply by September.